Introduction:
The Haji Ali Dargah is a historical landmark in Mumbai and is also one of the most prestigious Islamic symbols situated in South Mumbai. It consists the tomb of Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.)
Haji Ali Dargah Complex
The location of the Dargah serves as one of the major attractions luring tourists here. With the sea forming the backdrop, Haji Ali becomes a sight to behold. The entire structure is spread over an area of around 5,000 sq. m. and stands adorned with an 85-foot high minaret.
Orientation:
The entire Dargah complex is located on a small islet in the Arabian Sea, the area called Haji Ali Bay. It has a linear pedestrian accessway (about 3-4m) leading towards it.
Haji Ali Dargah comprises the Dargah Complex, the Kinara Masjid adjacent to the entrance of Haji Ali Dargah on Lala Lajpat Rai Road, the concrete pathway leading from Lala Lajpat Rai Road to the Dargah Complex and the Haji Ali Dargah Trust Offices.
The islet is linked to the city precinct of Mahalakshmi by a narrow causeway, which is nearly a kilometre (0.62 miles) long.
History
There have been several saints who have travelled from far and wide to India, spreading the word of Islam. There also have been many other saints who migrated to India from the Arab countries and Persia. They came as and when informed by their intuition or will or as per the instructions of Prophet Mohamed (S.A.W.S. - Peace Be Upon Him) as envisioned in their dreams or by Ilm (Wisdom of Faith) i.e. as pointed out by spiritual power given to them by Allah (S.W.T)
A magnificent example of the spread of Islam by an Iranian Saint is that of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.). The Muslims believe that the holy saints who sacrifice and devote their lives in the way of Allah (S.W.T) are immortal. Their stature is equivalent to that of the Martyrs (Shaheed) as they have renounced their worldly lives for Allah (S.W.T.) and are called Shahadat-e-Huqmi.
The Saint travelled to Mumbai from Uzbekistan to Preach Islam. His tomb has been constructed here to honour his last wish - to be buried in the sea.
That is why the Dargah Sharief is built at the very site where his shroud came to rest in the middle of the sea where it perched on a small mound of rocks rising above the sea. The Tomb and Dargah Sharief were built in the years to come. Though the shrine is believed to date back to the 16th century, the present structure was built in the 19th century.
Architecture
The Complex:
The setting is unique to the world in the sense that it has a Dargah, a Masjid and a Sanatorium in the middle of the Sea which accommodates thousands of people at a time.
The edifice is a brilliant specimen of the Indo-Islamic style of architecture.
View of Haji Ali Dargah Complex
Source: Haji Ali Dargah Trust
The Dargah is a handsome example of Islamic architecture standing on an island. The structure has typical white domes and minarets reminiscent of the Mughal architecture of the period (Indo-Islamic Architecture)
The Dargah Complex consists of:
A large Main Gate covered with pure white marble.
Main Dargah Building housing the tomb of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari
A ground + 2 storeyed Sanatorium Building and Sanatorium Blocks
Qawwal Khana
Masjid, Minaret and Chhatri (Umbrella)
The hall called Qawwal Khanna, the Ladies' Rest Shade, the Toilets, the buildings of the Sanatorium presently called Mashriqui & Maghribi Manzil and the Main Gate of Dargah Complex were constructed between 1946 & 1950 by the then trustees.
The entrance to the Haji Ali Complex
A short flight of marble steps leads into the Dargah Complex where the body of the Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari is enclosed in a tomb.
Pathway:
The accessibility to the dargah depends on the tides. The pathway connects the shore to the islet. It leads towards the Dargah Complex from Lala Lajpat Rai Road up to the Main Gate of Haji Ali Dargah Complex was constructed in 1944, from the trust funds. The pathway was reconstructed between 1984 & 1990 from the Trust fund and the width and height of the same was also increased. Street lights were fixed by the Trustees along the side of the pathway by the Trust fund for beautification & convenience to the public, from time to time.
This walk on the pathway, with the sea on both sides, is one of the highlights of a trip to the shrine.
The access-way to Haji Ali Dargah
The 700-yard pathway is not surrounded by railings. Since it is lashed by the waves of the Arabian Sea, one can visit the Dargah only when the tide is low. As the height of the pathway was raised by a few feet during the 1980s, the Dargah has become accessible throughout the year except in the monsoons during July and August when the Seas are very rough. During this time the Gates on either side of the pathway are closed for a few hours until the waves subside for the safety of devotees and visitors.
Main Gate:
At the end of the pathway leading to the Dargah Complex is a short flight of marble steps, at the end of which stands a tall monumental Main Gate to the complex. This is the only entry route to the complex. It is made of RCC and covered with pure white marble.
Decorations of the main gate during religious festivals & occasions
A view from inside during the day
At the top of the Main Gate the following words are engraved in pure white marble and painted in gold "Asthana Hazrat Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.)" as shown below and is translated as "The Tomb of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.)".
Qawwal Khana:
Upon entry into the Dargah Complex is a huge foyer where visitors usually gather to spend some time with their families and friends. To the south-west corner of the Dargah Sharief is an open hall called the Qawwal Khana. Many great Qawwals have come and presented their work of worship to Allah for the Saint.
The ambience of the space includes the reverberating sounds of the Qawwali and the cool sea breeze thereby creating a refreshing experience for all who visit the Dargah Shareif. Usually, it is performed on Fridays.
Qawwal Khana
Noted Qawwali performers, the Sabri brothers have also performed at this venue. In front of the Qawwal Khana, adjacent to the compound wall is a long bench for visitors to take a break and appreciate the ambience of the Dargah Sharief.
Dargah Shareif :
The main entrance to the Dargah Sharief is through the South Hall.
The main Dargah Sharief has 3 halls (sehen) on 3 sides of the Main Hall, to its West, South and East. The Northern wall of the Main hall is adjacent to the Masjid. The hall on the west side is reserved strictly for women folk to offer their prayers and offerings to the saint. The hall on the east side and the main hall are reserved for men folk to offer their prayers.
The entrance to the Main Hall is an arched doorway made of pure white marble with a delicately carved crown above the arch. Entry to the main hall is segregated for both Men and Women in line with the traditions of Islam. The men enter the Dargah Sharief through the South Hall and the women through the east hall. The ceiling of the main hall surrounding the dome and the upper portion of the four wall is also pasted with intricate mirror glass pieces portraying the 99 names of Allah (S.W.T.).
Ladies have a separate hall for prayers and to rest for a while. All visitors need to remove their shoes before entering the shrine.
The Tomb:
Inside the main hall is the tomb of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.). The tomb is housed in a pure white marble enclosure which has an arched marble frame. The marble frame is decorated with mirrorwork and is supported by a set of eight marble pillars. Above the frame is a pure Silver Crown.
The tomb is covered with zari cloth or red and green brocade sheets decorated with the Arabic verses from the Quran Sharief or with the names of Allah (S.W.T.) or Prophet Mohamed (S.A.W.S.). The top of the tomb is covered with flowers and other offerings by devotees are placed around the tomb. The devotees pray and pay their respects to Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) by bowing their heads in homage and kissing the cloth covering the tomb.
Directly above the tomb is the big dome of the Dargah Sharief. From the exterior it appears as a pure white semi-spherical structure. The interior of the dome is adorned with a mosaic of mirrorwork forming various intricate patterns. At the base of the dome, the mirror work is arranged to reveal verses of the Quran Sharief.
Both men and women folk stand in the main hall and pay their respects to Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) and seek his blessings.
Minaret of the Masjid:
The structure has white domes and minarets reminiscent of the Mughal architecture of the period. Adjacent to the Tomb in the North is a Grand Masjid for devout Muslims to offer their daily prayers. Attached to the Masjid is an 85 feet tall Minaret which is prominently visible from the Hornby Vellard (Lala Lajpat Rai Marg)
The Muezzin climbs to the top of this Minaret to call the Muslim brethren to pray five times a day. A large number of devotees gather here at Haji Ali Dargah to offer prayers on Fridays, Ramadhan Eid and Bakri Eid.
The Sanatorium Building:
It is a G+2 storeyed structure included in the Dargah Complex. It consists of thirty - 1 and 2 bedroom, hall, and kitchen (BHK) apartments with attached baths. These accommodations are allotted to the visitors as transit accommodations at very nominal rates of Rs. 150 to Rs. 600 per month for a maximum period of 3 months.
Earlier the sanatorium consisted of single-storeyed blocks of 1 room and kitchen with a small balcony. The new structure was constructed in the early 1980s to accommodate more families.
Sanatorium Block
Similar Sites in the City
Ma Haji Ani Dargah:
Ma Haji Ani Dargah. Haji Ali Dargah can be seen in the foreground.
Source: The Hindu
This is also a shrine, located along the shore opposite the Haji Ali Dargah. It is often mistaken with Haji Ali Dargah. It is 113 years old.
The mausoleum is a grave of Saint-Ma-Hajiani in the 1908. It was built as a token of devotion and reverence to glorify her pious name and sacred memory by Haji Ismail Hasham - ship owner and pioneer of Indian Shipping.
The site has 3 graves. That of Ma Haji Ani, Haji Ismail Hasham Yusuf; and his son Sir Mohamed Yusuf
From historic as well as religious points of view, the site of the dargah is strategic. Its narrative is linked to Mumbai’s nautical past.
The dargah was restored recently. It was a 2-year project that began in 2017 by conservation architect Vikas Dilawari. The dargah is now open to the public.
Life
The walk (from the Road to the Dargah)
Earlier there was no pathway in the sea and people collected stones and made a temporary path during low tide. During high tide, however, the path was destroyed. In 1944, the then Managing Trustee had decided to build a permanent pathway but he was hesitant as he was not sure if the pathway would withstand the strength of the high during the monsoon season tides.
The famous juice center is located a few meters near the pathway entrance
Soon, a concrete pathway with rubble stone masonry was constructed for the convenience of the devotees and visitors. The walk along the pathway is an immersive experience in itself.
Vendors selling souvenirs
View from the main gate of the Complex
These black rocks are located behind the Dargah, where one can walk on and view the skyline of Mumbai.
Spiritual Connect
The spread of Islam in India is a story of the gradual growth of the Islamic religion essentially through various itinerant Sufi Saints and traders who settled amongst the local indigenous population. The tomb of Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) is an example of this.
The place is visited by many devotees and visitors who are attracted by the beauty of the site. The widespread belief is that whoever prays here is never disappointed. Several pilgrims come here for thanksgiving.
Building Funding and Economics
The Trust
Haji Ali Dargah Trust is a public trust registered under the provisions of the Bombay Public Trust Act, of 1950. The Dargah is managed by the Trust.
The funding for all the renovation, restoration & reconstruction works of the Dargah was carried out by the trustees during the time, through the Trust Funds.
The Haji Ali Dargah Trust was founded by Abdul Karim Haji Essa Haji Fazla, Haji Jan Mohamed Haji Mohamed & other Cutchi Memons by instituting suit no 1337 of 1916 in the High Court of Judicature at Bombay, Ordinary Original Civil Jurisdiction. A scheme was formed under the Commissioner of the Hon’ble High Court for the management and administration of the Dargah & the properties appertaining to it.
The charitable trust was designated as Haji Ali Dargah Trust. With India obtaining independence and sovereignty, the Haji Ali Dargah Trust was subsequently registered with the Charity Commissioner of Maharashtra, under the provisions of the Bombay Public Trust Act, 1950.
The Name of Haji Ali Dargah Trust is published in the Gazette of the Government of India
The Objectives of the Trust
i) To apply the income of the Trust in or towards the payment and discharge of all rates, taxes and assessments and all the expenses of keeping the immovable and movable properties in good and substantial repair order and condition.
ii) To spend for all other necessary or usual outgoings and expenses in respect of the management of the Dargah and of the Masjid and other properties pertaining thereto.
iii) To apply the net balance of income in or towards the upkeep and repairs of the Dargah and Road or passage leading thereto from Bhulabhai Desai Road and in defraying the expenses of the annual feast to be given and the fair (URS) to be held on the occasion of the anniversary of the death of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) and to perform all customary rites.
The objects were expanded in 1989 through an appeal before the Charity Commissioner, the State of Maharashtra and the Bombay High Court. After fulfilling the above objects the Trustees shall be at liberty to spend/utilize balance or surplus funds towards any or all of the following:
i) To conduct and maintain Madrassas.
ii) To give scholarships to deserving students irrespective of caste, creed, religion or community.
iii) To establish, run and/or help Schools, Colleges, and other technical, industrial and scientific institutions of a purely secular nature.
iv) To render medical help or relief to the deserving persons irrespective of caste, creed, religion, community or nationality.
v) To establish, maintain, develop and/or help dispensaries, hospitals, convalescent homes for persons irrespective of caste, creed, religion, or nationality.
vi) To render monetary help to other Public Trusts having similar objects at the absolute discretion of the Trustees.
vii) To collect donations or spend for relief of distress ceased by security, drought, flood, fire or other natural calamity.
viii) To render financial assistance in the absolute discretion of the trustees to Remand Homes, Rescue Homes and Orphanages and poor widows and destitute.
ix) Trustees in their absolute discretion may render financial assistance by way of loans on reasonable rates of interest and with the security for housing poor and middle-class persons subject to the sanction of the Charity Commissioner, Maharashtra State, Mumbai.
The reconstruction project that was conducted from October 2008 onwards cost about Rs 10 crores.
Community – Kutchi / Cutchi Memons
The trustees of the Haji Ali Dargah are from the Kutchi Memon community.
They are an ethnic group or caste from Kutch in Gujarat, India, who speak the Kutchi language. They are related to the Memons associated with the historic state of Kathiwar, a Muslim community of Pakistan and India, who speak the Memon language.
Kutchi Memons originally practiced Hinduism and converted to Islam under the influence of Sunni pirs.
They are a predominantly business community and are known for their Philanthropy. Being part of the Indian diaspora, the Kutchi Memons are spread all over India, as well as the globe and have erected many mosques all over the world
Architecture & Inspiration
The details adopted for the structures & design of the Dargah have been inspired by the Mughal Architecture that was prevalent in the country at the time.
The Dargah
It is also observed that all the restoration work that is carried out for the structures are also adheres to the design principles of Mughal Architecture. For instance – mirror work, jali patterns, and adopting white marble entirely for the structure – just like the Taj Mahal.
Jali work is observed along the fenestrations & as the fountain base
Intricate Jali Work – A blend of Floral and Star Shaped Patterns
Mirror Work:
The main hall has marble pillars embellished with artistic mirror work on the ceiling: blue, green, and yellow chips of glass arranged in kaleidoscopic patterns interspersed with Arabic patterns which spell the ninety-nine names of Allah.
The designs of the ceiling also include floral motifs highlighting a central element – such as the dome.
Mirror-work on the Domed Ceiling
Minaret:
The new minaret was reconstructed entirely out of Makrana marble and intricate carvings.
Sources: Twety22
Floral designs in inlay skirt the lower part of the tower and ‘jali’ or lattice work covers the upper levels. The round balcony at the top, which can be reached by climbing the spiral stair with 113 steps, is crowned with a cupola held by pillars.
Carved Jali, Viewing Balcony and Railings of the Minaret
Colours
Haji Ali Dargah before Restoration
It is observed that certain horizontal and vertical elements are highlighted in turquoise blue, and the Jali work has been highlighted in Brown.
During important festivals and occasions, the principle lighting pattern followed are – blues & greens.
Pillars and Archways:
The Archways and pillars in the prayer hall, are marble-clad. It is adorned with intricate floral patterns of red, green, blue and golden colours.
Intricately carved calligraphy on the marble
Urban Legend (Rivayat)
Arrival of the Saint:
Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) was sitting at some lonely place in his hometown and was busy in his prayers when a lady passed by from there crying and screaming. When the Saint enquired about her crying, she pointed to an empty vessel in her hand and said that she had dropped some oil. And if she goes home without the oil her husband would beat her. She was crying in need of help. The Saint asked her to be calm and went with her to the place where the oil had been dropped. He then took the vessel from the wailing lady and pushed the earth with his thumb. The oil came out like a fountain and the vessel was full. The Saint gave her the vessel with oil and she went away happily.
However, after that, the Saint was troubled by dreams of having wounded the earth by striking it in this manner. Full of remorse and grief from that day he became very serious and was not keeping well. Then with the permission of his mother, he travelled to India with his brother and finally reached the shores of Mumbai – near Worli or at some place opposite the present tomb. His brother went back to their native place. Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) sent a letter with him to their mother informing her that he was keeping good health and that he had decided to reside at that place permanently for the spread of Islam and that she should forgive him.
Location of the Tomb
Before his death, he had advised his followers that they should not bury Him at any proper place or graveyard and should drop his shroud ('kafan') in the ocean such that it should be buried by the people where it is found.
His wish was obeyed by his followers. That is why the Dargah Sharief is built at the very site where his shroud came to rest in the middle of the sea where it was perched on a small mound of rocks rising above the sea. The Tomb and Dargah Sharief were built in the years to come.
Pathway Construction
One day an old man came to meet the earlier Chairman and informed him that Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) had appeared to him in his dream and asked him why he had stopped visiting the Dargah Sharief. The old man replied that as there was no proper pathway, due to his old age it was difficult for him to visit the Dargah Sharief. The Saint informed him that a concrete pathway had now been built from the Main Road upto the Dargah Complex and that he would now have no trouble visiting his Tomb. The Chairman then told him that he had not started the work of the pathway yet but has been contemplating about building a concrete pathway for the convenience of the visitors. This was a hint to him and it became evident to him that he should not wait any longer and commence work on the same immediately.
To safeguard the pathway from the waves and any other damage was a matter to be left to Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.).
Most of the related legends reflect the immense trust the followers carried for the saint.
Heritage Status
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Conservation & Upkeep:
Extensive renovations were carried out in 1960 and 1964. The most recent structural upgrade of the dargah was started in October 2008.
The repair and structural work was envisaged to take twenty-four months and was conducted in two phases. "Phase One" involved reconstruction of the mosque and minarets. "Phase Two" involved renovation of the sanitarium building.
The vision for the holy shrine was to have the feel of a Taj right in Mumbai's brackish sea water, after the reconstruction. The Dargah Sharief is more than 500 years old. The pictures below show the Dargah Sharief as it existed before the present structure prior to 1960.
The Dargah Lit at Night
The present and earlier structures are made of RCC (Reinforced Cement Concrete) reinforced with steel. The structure as observed by many a visitor has severely corroded due to its proximity to the sea and salt content in the breeze coming from over the sea. Even non-ferrous metals have been observed to corrode at Haji Ali Dargah.
The current form and state of the Dargah
The structure needed repairs and restoration, however, reusing RCC placed the same challenges in front of the Trustees who wanted to restore the beauty and ambience of the Dargah Sharief as well as ensure the longevity of the Dargah Sharief buildings.
Proposed Ambience at the Time of the Restoration Work
The Trustees in consultation with their structural engineers and architects decided to restore the entire mausoleum in solid pure white marble stone obtained straight from the famous mines of Makrana in Rajasthan (India) and create a semblance similar to the famous Taj Mahal.
Glasswork design of the proposed dome and the work-in-progress on the Minaret of the Masjid
Being a heritage structure in the middle of the sea, the Trust had to obtain various permissions from various departments of the government at all levels in the city, state and center. Work commenced in 2009 after obtaining all necessary permissions and clearances.
The work was carried out in a phased manner in smaller proportions to accommodate the thousands of visitors and devotees who come to the shrine every day and cause minimal disruption in their paying homage to the Saint
The Pathway leading to the Dargah Sharief was constructed between 1944 and 1952
The Main Gate was reconstructed out of solid pure white marble as part of the renovation and reconstruction program.
The Dargah Sharief and the Masjid was reconstructed, remodeled & renovated between 1960 & 64.
The new Sanatorium building was constructed by demolishing the old ground floor structure of the sanatorium between 1978 & 82.
The Kinara Masjid was also developed & reconstructed from time to time on the parapet space (Ottla) available over the last 300 years.
Reconstruction of the Minaret:
All work was carried out in pure white solid marble with carving and engravings depicting architectural designs reminiscent of the Mughal era. The Masjid and the Minaret are inlaid and adorned with precious and semi-precious stones.
Since few artisans in Mumbai can work in marble, workers were brought in from Makrana. Even the inlay designs in semi-precious stones like moonga (coral) and firuza (turquoise) are being done by artists from Rajasthan.
The minaret was the first structure to be reconstructed. The mosque was the next structure to be rebuilt. The pillars were completed parallelly. The dargah that holds the tomb of the saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari was constructed after the mosque, followed by the office building and dormitory.
Future Development
Coastal Road:
Artists’ rendition of the coastal project with Haji Ali
Source: The Wire
The Coastal Road is an under construction 8-lane, 22.2-km long freeway that would run along Mumbai's western coastline connecting Marine Lines in the south to Kandivali in the north. is expected to reduce travel time between South Mumbai and the Western Suburbs from 2 hours to 40 minutes. The estimated cost of the project is ₹12,000 crore (US$1.7 billion). Its first phase is a 9.98 km section from the Princess Street flyover to the Worli end of the Bandra-Worli Sea Link.
Aerial View
Source: Google Earth
We can observe the reclamation of the sea coast for the construction of the coastal road.
Old Photographs of the Site
Picturesque photo of Haji Ali
Source: Neeraj Priyadarshi
Pilgrims visiting the Dargah – 1940s
Source: Dinodia
Person in History
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Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari:
Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari was a Sufi Saint born to a wealthy merchant family from Samarkand, Uzbekistan. He was born sometime in the 14th century. He came to settle in Mumbai when the Delhi Sultanate ruled over the island of Worli.
The saint gave up all his wealth and material possessions to make a pilgrimage to Mecca. After travelling all over the world, he finally settled in Mumbai and dedicated the rest of his life to propagating Sufism in the area. He died sometime in the 15th century.
Many miracles have happened during the life of Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.) and after his death. Whatever is known about Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R. A.) is learnt from the caretakers and trustees from generation to generation as the Saint never married and has no descendants. Some people tried to portray themselves as his descendants or heirs and have destroyed the exact history of the Saint, his Tomb and the Dargah.
Till his death, he was spreading the knowledge of Islam to the people and devotees regularly visiting him.
Resources:
Websites
1. Official Website for Haji Ali Dargah - http://www.hajialidargah.in.html
[All the photos have been sourced from the above websites. Sources listed on the photographs themselves. Unless stated otherwise]
3. www.hajiali.org
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