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Writer's pictureSanjana Mallya

Multitudes of Historical Tales Intertwining at Mint Chowk, Fort Precinct


Introduction:


Mint Chowk is a street junction between Shoorji Vallabhdas Road and Shahid Bhagat Singh Road. It is located in the Native Quarters of the Fort Precinct in South Mumbai.


Sir Pherozeshah Mehta Marg, bordered by offices of uniform height

Source: Maya Sorabjee



Orientation:


The buildings chosen on the site surround the junction of Shoorji Vallabhdas Road and Shahid Bhagat Singh Road. The Mulji Jetha public water fountain has also been added to understand the transformation of the streetscape.


Buildings chosen along Mint Junction





Architecture


The 19th century displayed a magnificent spectacle of Victorian neo-Gothic, Indo-Saracenic, neo–classical, Art (& Bombay) Deco and Edwardian structures linked together by continuous ground floor connections along the streetscape of the junction.


Several structures along the street stretch exhibit different architectural styles. All of these structures have different stories of their own. This helps create an interesting narrative for the street junction. Some of the notable structures along this are as follows:



1. Mulji Jetha Fountain - 1894


Mulji Jetha fountain is a public water fountain that was erected following a commission by Ruttonsee Mulji, a cotton merchant who sought to commemorate the death of his only son, Dharamsi Mulji, who died aged 15 in 1889. The fountain is ornamental + functional in its physical characteristics. The structure was designed by Architect Fredrick William Stevens who was assisted by John Griffiths in the sculpting. The structure is built in Indo Saracenic Style. It was restored in 2017 by the funding of the Kala Ghoda Association in collaboration with Vikas Dilawari Architects and Jeernodhar Conservators.




Mulji Jetha Fountain

Source: Chinmay Bhave




2. Marshall Building – 1905


This structure is built in the Edwardian Baroque Architectural Style. It is a domed structure. It used to house the famous English agricultural machinery manufacturer Marshall and Sons. It is located at the Junction Between the two roads – Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg and Shoorji Vallabhdas Rd. The building was designed by Charles Fredrick Stevens, son of FW Stevens.


Marshall Building



3. Government of India, Mint Building – 1829


The India Government Mint, Mumbai is one of the four mints in India and is in the city of Mumbai. The erection of the present Mint was sanctioned by the East India Company in 1823. Its main activity is the production of commemorative and development-oriented coins. This was designed and its construction was supervised by Major John Hawkins. He was a civil engineer who had overtaken the architectural works of the building – as were several buildings in the era. It is built on land that was reclaimed from the sea. The architectural style is Greek Revival. An additional wing for the same was built in 1864.




His Majesty’s Mint, Bombay 1824-29




4. Gresham Assurance House


This building was designed by the Architect Fredrick McKnight. The building is of Art Deco architectural style with elements of Greek Revival Architecture such as the Ionic Columns and Indo Saracenic - The Dome.







5. Botawala Chambers



[Source: www.artdecomumbai.com]


The building is named after the proprietor Suleman Botawala. He had begun a bookstore on the ground floor of the chambers. Indian Oil Corporation Ltd also began its humble office in the building in 1959.


Rest of the World in a similar Period


Revivalism in architecture is the use of visual styles that consciously echo the style of a previous architectural era. This architectural style was observed around the world during this period.



Comparatives with other Sites


1. Roundabout Parallel to Mint Chowk (West) – This junction consists of a Clock Tower named Bormarjee Hormarjee Wadia Clock Tower located almost centrally. This is surrounded by The Punjab National Bank Building, The Rahimoola House, the Amar Building and the Great Social Building. Most of these buildings are of Art Deco architectural style with a public fountain in the center. Most of them are also buildings associated with Banks.



Bomanjee Hormarjee Wadia Clock Tower



2. DN Road: Linear Street Scape - DN Road exhibits a similar urban scape. The street is lined with buildings of architectural styles from different eras. Due to this reason, it has been a part of the urban streetscape project. This conservation project titled: ‘ Dadabhai Naoroji Road Heritage Streetscape Project’, by the Mumbai Metropolitan Regional Development Authority to protect the 19th-century streetscape by restoring the architectural integrity of the street with the regulation of the signboards and the inclusion of street furniture that complemented the neo–classical architecture. The appointed architect for the project was Abha Narain Lambah.



Archival Image of DN Street with Tram System





Spiritual Connect


Transformation of Architectural Styles in the Urban Landscape.

Imperialism (Mid-19th Century)


With reclamations, urban development schemes and industrialization are in full swing. Not only was Bombay undergoing an internal physical restructuring, but it also became a focal point for channelising a new vision of imperialism. The transfer of power from the East India Company to the British Crown in 1858 was represented by this. Architecture with its expressive symbols reflected the essaying of Britain as an imperial power and its colonies as extensions of its glorious self.


With its flying buttresses, vaulted arches and pointed rooflines, the high style that had resurfaced in Europe- the Victorian Neo-Gothic, came to adorn Bombay.



Indo-Saracenic Architecture (Late 19th Century)


By the 1870s, there was a consensus among the Public Works Department architects that colonial architecture in India needed to reflect the reality of its setting and be ideologically suited to the Indian milieu. Hence there was an attempt to assimilate the local styles with the European scale to showcase Britain’s accommodation of the tastes and sensibilities of its subjects. Thus, the Indo-Saracenic style was born out of a synthesis of Indic idioms inspired by the Mughal and Rajput styles, executed upon European planning and construction methods.


Indo-Saracenic architectural details




Public Water Fountains


In Mumbai, like in other Indian cities, fountains were erected in memory of important people or to commemorate an event. Benefactors of the city often donated drinking water fountains which were either free-standing structures or were combined with drinking water troughs for horses or cattle. There are many other significant fountains in different city squares like the Flora Fountain, the Wellington Fountain, the Emerson-designed fountain at Crawford Market, and a fountain in the courtyard of the BMC office.




Fountain at BMC Building


There are at least 50 colonial-era fountains in Mumbai. Most of these are in gardens, along former tram routes and in accessible public spaces. Some have been destroyed over time through neglect, or infrastructure projects.




Modernism (20th Century)


The era of the 1920s ushered in a new architectural style inspired by international art movements and spawned by indigenous initiatives. This new modern style popularised between 1930 and 1950, came to be known as Art Deco in the 1960s.



Art Deco Building opposite Oval Maidan stretch


Primarily used for residential constructions, it signified the acceptance of a living space that transcended linguistic and regional barriers, defined by the new ‘flat’ or apartment system. In many ways, it ushered in a new public culture that was global in aspirations, yet rooted in the local idiom




Building Funding


Most of the Public (Institutional) Buildings were funded by the Government of India (The East India Company/ British Crown). Some of these buildings were also funded by philanthropists and businessmen who had an interest in contributing to public welfare.


Many public structures of specific utilitarian purposes – such as drinking water fountains were funded by philanthropists. Many of these water fountains were erected as a memorial to someone related to the philanthropist.




Sociological Aspects


It is observed that the influences of architectural styles transformed from the European styles to that of Modernism. Other than the Indo Saracenic Architectural Styles, the new buildings did not have local influences in terms of architectural styles. The urban development in the city, here forth followed the architectural style of Modernism.




Colour or Radiance



Mulji Jetha Fountain:


The fountain was built with a variety of stones. Kurla Basalt for the large lower troughs and steps, with four intricately carved lion spouts. The inner layer of the trough is also of Kurla basalt.


The drum above is of buff-coloured basalt “Malad” stone and so are the carved cow head spouts. Ornamentation work like the top trough, brackets, domes, elephants, alligators, iguana, flora and fauna, chajjas, and the statue of the boy are in soft limestone i.e. Porbandar stone.


Use of granite is seen too; red granite columns for the top and grey-blue granite for the middle level octastyle colonnade. Lime mortar was used as a binding material.



Details:


Altogether, there are 42 exquisite figures of different animals: 4 lions heads on the outer lower trough, 8 goats on the base of the drum of the lower level trough, an inner drum with 8 cow heads, 8 pillars with elephants at the corners of chajja, with 8 alligators and 8 iguanas in between them.


Inscriptions:


[Source: MidDay Newspaper]


A marble plaque on the side facing the Asiatic Library—another plaque on the opposite side (facing the Mint) has a similar inscription in Gujarati—which proclaims, “This fountain was erected by Ruttonsee Muljee Esquire, in memory of his late and only son Dharamsee whose statue crowns the structure. The fountain was presented to the corporation of this city for the benefit of the public on 8th Jan 1894.”



Fashion



Source: Ramchandra Venkatesh


It is observed here that Dharamsi Mulji is wearing a traditional Parsi attire. His statue crowns the dome of the water fountain



2. Marshall Building


It’s a corner building in grey regular-dressed ashlar masonry with plastered accents. The main entrance at the corner has a round pediment with ornamental spandrel on composite columns. The corner is flanked by two large capped domes on Tuscan pilasters and two large pediments each having statue on top. Windows are defined by mouldings. A dome surmounts the corner portion.



3. Mint Building


Stone building with ionic portico deriving influence from Neo-classical style of Architecture



Inscription

An inscription on the building shows that it was designed and constructed by Major John Hawkins of the Bombay Engineers, was commenced in 1824 and completed in 1829.




Ecological Affiliations


Kurla Basalt and buff trachyte Malad Stone are locally quarried materials. Hence, finding and using these materials for restoration was comparatively easy. Since it has an Indian composition, the materials used add to the Indian Character of the structure.


Porbandar stone (miliolite limestone) was shipped from the Saurashtra region of Gujarat and was used in the construction of prominent public buildings in Bombay. The stone was highly prized by sculptors and architects and hence used in the construction of ornamental public fountains.


Many buildings in the city were built out of igneous basalt and soft limestone, that were sourced locally, and crafted by Indian craftsmen and students of the J.J. College of Art. Conceding to the Indian tropical climate, these buildings also sported sloping tiled roofs, carved balconies and verandahs. Thus, the buildings in Bombay emerged as distinctive architectural styles that drew on design sources of Europe but at the same time were sensitized to the Indian site, climate and materials.





Language and Oral Traditions


The Ballard Street - The name Ballard is said to be derived from a ball, a white streak, a word of Celtic origin. It was used, according to Wyclif, by the little boys who unwisely called to an irritable prophet "stey up Ballard" or as the Authorised Version says "Go up, thou bald head." (2 Kings II. 23. quoted in Weekley's " The Romance of Names.")


Mulji Jetha FountainIt is observed here that the plaque contains engraving in Gujarati – The native tongue of Ratansee Mulji.








Geographical Location: Streets and their Cultural Associations


Streets identified on the Map



The following are two lanes in the area that are named after port towns in South India. According to one version of the story, the streets were named after its early settlers – traders from these port towns.


People from the south Indian port cities settled down in the lanes near the port and goods arriving from a city were stored in godowns on particular streets,” [Source: Vikas Dilawari]


Editor Samuel T Sheppard, in his book, puts the naming of these streets around 1888.


When the neighbourhood got a Victorian makeover, the lanes stayed simple, and its buildings plain. The customs took over some of the buildings, but others remained home for the area’s oldest residents. A few small businesses continued to flourish and some of Mumbai’s best restaurants opened up. The arrival of workers from the south brought to the city cafes and restaurants that served food from their region.


The owner of the oldest motor garage in the area—Sam Ruston & Company Garage – remembers how groups of South Indians, mostly Keralites and Tamilians, worked in the docks and lived on Cochin and Calicut streets that boasted of hotels serving regional food.



Bharat Excellensea


The Street Cuisines: The Kerala hotels served Travancore and Malabari food and were popular among the non-vegetarians. The Mangalorean hotels serving vegetarian food and Tamilian hotels serving tiffin were frequented by vegetarians. Ghee and sugar were free in the Udupi hotels and fish fry would be served twice on-demand in the Kerala hotels for the same price.



Cafe Universal


Other famous restaurants in the area include - Bharat Excellensea (earlier Bharat), Café Universal (an Iranian Café), a Madras cafe named Harish and Travellers Inn (earlier Shimla-Calcutta hotel).




1. Kalicut Street. (East of Mint Road.) Named after the town of Kalicut in Southern India.



Calicut Street, 1998




Source: Kunal Patil/Hindustan Times


Calicut Street earlier had Pathan money lenders. Of the 20 families that once lived there, only one is left



2. Kochin Street. (From Frere Road eastwards to a new road along the seashore.) Named after the state of Cochin in Southern India.



Source: Kunal Patil/Hindustan Times





3. Bread Market Street. (From Mint Road to Modi Street.)

It formerly led from the Fort Market to the Bread Market, the site of which is now occupied by the Wadia Fountain.


Bread Market Street



4. Agiary Lane. (From Borah Bazaar to Mint Road.)

Named after an Agiary, or Fire Temple, of the Parsis known as Maneckji Seth Agiary, built by Maneckji Nowroji Sett in 1748



Maneckji Seth Agyari



The building is a representation of Greek and Persian styles of Architecture. When the Great Fire of 1803 burnt down the initial fire temple, the community came together for reconstruction to donate in cash. Eggs and toddy contributed by them were used to mix with lime to strengthen the walls. It was functional post 1845.




Grecian Wreaths alongside Persian Columns dominate the edifice



Bas relief of sun on the gable with a depiction of the holy fire on top of the Maneckji Seth Agiary. Greek Revival and Persian architectural elements are the dominating style. The columns with rams for capitals are Persian, while the wreaths above the entrance are Grecian. The construct is like that of a Greek Temple, the only difference being the bas relief of the sun on the pediment of the gable. Adorning the top and the sides of the gable is the figure of the holy fire. Corinthian columns also make an appearance.


*Bas Relief is an artistic technique that involves lightly carving a design onto a surface






5-legged Lamassu at the entrance



Grecian wreaths alongside Persian columns dominate the edifice. The most striking and common feature found in all Zoroastrian edifices, is the 5-legged lamassu, a symbol of our 5 senses. With the head of a wise man, the body of a bull or lion, legs of an eagle, the Lamassu is a symbol. Of wisdom, intelligence, courage, strength and above all, the vision to soar up the sky.



Agyari Lane 1900s



5. Mint Road. (From Fort Street to Elphinstone Circle.)

Named after the Bombay Mint premises situated on this road.


Mint Rd


This road consists of the RBI currency museum. In 2015, the extension of the Freeway was proposed up to this road.



6. Frere Road (From Mint Road to Malet Road.)

Named after Sir Bartle Frere, first Bart. (1815-1884). Governor of Bombay (1862 to 1867).


Shahid Bhagat Singh Rd

Source: Sven Richard Bernert, 2015


The road was then named Old Custom House Rd and is currently known as Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg. This is the N-S street contributor to the Mint Chowk.



7. Ballard Pier and Road. {From Mint Road and Frere Road Junction to a new road along the seashore eastwards.)


The street was called so after General J. A. Ballard, R.B., who was the first Chairman of the Bombay Port Trust, holding the post from June 1873 to May 1876. He became Mint Master, Bombay, in 1861, and when the Port Trust was constituted in 1873, became its President.



Ballard Pier and the Port Trust Office, Bombay, 1905

Source: Mumbai Heritage


This is a street that lies within the commercial district that leads to the eastern waterfront. This street section has a uniform architectural style, especially the buildings on street corners, the cast-iron porches and the central open space after each row of buildings. The area remains the most visually homogenous Edwardian Neoclassical architecture in the city. It also has the Mumbai Port Trust building along it.



Jamadar Bapu Laxman Chowk at Ballard Street, now known as Shoorji Vallabhdas Rd


Earlier, this street along the estate was a bustling hub of activity, with a railway station called Ballard Pier, a passenger berth inside the port and many commercial establishments of big companies, mainly shipping and industries.



Mumbai Ballard Estate Festival:


To make the people in the city aware of its unique urban identity, the festival commenced every weekend within a few streets in the precinct. The streets here were opened up, to accommodate the crowds attending the same.


This was an initiative that was brought about by MCGM, Mumbai Port Trust (MbPT) and the Indian Heritage Society (IHS).



The Venue for the same is located along the Port House on Shoorji Vallabhdas Rd.



This is the E-W street contributor to the Mint Chowk. The street is currently named as Shoorji Vallabhdas Rd, but also commonly identified as Phirojshah Mehta Rd




Heritage Status – Grade & Pre-Restoration Status








The Current Situation of the Monument & Interaction


All the monuments mentioned above are restored to their original glory. They all contribute to the physical characteristics and essence of the British Colonial architectural era in Bombay. Most of them are public buildings affiliated with the revenue and form of the banking district within the historic core of Fort.





Old Photographs of the Site



Archival Image of the Mulji Jetha Fountain - 19th century from Bombay Gothic

[Image Courtesy: Sir Christopher London]






Before & After Images of the Fountain

[Source: : Mumbai Heritage (@mumbaiheritage) on Twitter]





Person in history


Fredrick William Stevens (1847 – 1900)


He was the architect of the Mulji Jetha fountain within the Mint Chowk area. He was an important contributor to the development of the urban landscape in Mumbai. His works include The Victoria Terminus (now the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus), The Municipal Corporation building and the Headquarters of the Western Indian Railway.



FW Stevens






Resources:


1. Chimes, Michael Mark. (2015). Architectural Dilettantes: Construction Professionals in British India 1600-1910. Part 1. 1600-1860: The Age of the Dilettante.Construction History.30(2), 15-44.Retrieved January 9, 2021, from http://www.jstor.org/stable/44215906


2. Compiled under Government Orders. (1909). Bombay Gazetteer, Volume III. Bombay: Times Press. Pg 306


3. Sheppard, Samuel T.(1917). Bombay Place-Names and Street-Names. Bombay: The Times Press.



Documents:


1. Heritage List (Development Proposal 2012) published by MCGM in collaboration with The Mumbai Heritage Conservation Committee


Websites:


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