Introduction & Orientation:
Matharpakhadi is an East Indian Village, in the heart of Mazagaon, Mumbai. It is around 400 years old. It is currently also listed as a heritage precinct by the MMR HCS. It has some of the oldest and quaintest houses in the city. The village’s name is derived from “Mathar”, meaning elderly and “pakhadi”, village.
Matharpakhadi Street Fabric, 1995
Source: Pankaj Joshi
The historical neighbourhood precinct is located in central Mazagaon. The prominent landmarks nearby are – the Gunpowder Lane which came as a result of the armory, the Megaton Court, and the Sales Tax office.
Precinct Location
Matharpakhadi is mainly populated by East Indians East Indians, a Marathi language-speaking, Roman Catholic ethnic group. Matharpakhadi initially developed as residential settlements for those working at the docks and nearby. The evolution of the village settlement was due to the industrial development in the city, through the Mazagaon suburb.
The architectural style of the homes is Vintage Portuguese adorned with ornate elements. The colourful, quaint houses were initially laid within fruiting orchards. However, these orchards no longer exist. The housing typology includes brightly colourful split-level structures staircases, dexterous woodwork and sloping brick roofs.
Matharpakhadi
The village fabric also includes a twice fruit-bearing mango tree, century-year-old Goan clubs, a 125-year-old oratory dedicated to a saint, and a historic perennial well that has a unique cultural significance
Matharpakhadi Precinct Evolution:
The evolution of Matharpakhadi is intrinsically interwoven with that of the Mazagaon suburban whole. It has contributed to the historical development of the area.
Matharpakhadi Denomination Plan, 1995
Source: Pankaj Joshi
The mega metropolitan city of Mumbai which was once a group of seven islands, was home to communities of fishing villages and little hamlets scattered all over. They are chapters of a glorious history that endowed us with such rich heritage and architecture.
The name ‘Mazgaon’ may have been derived from two sources. Maza Gaon which means ‘my village’ in Marathi or Maccha Grama which means a ‘fishing village’. Mazgaon or Mazagon - part of South Mumbai is one of the oldest suburbs of Mumbai.
Aerial View towards Mazagaon
Matharpakhadi, more precisely shaped after the 1700s Mazagaon dock attracted north Bombay Catholics, Chinese traders and Pathan moneylenders. Their influx swelled with the cotton boom which was an externality of the American Civil War. In the absence of daily train travel, dock hands and mill workers from distant Vasai and Uttan preferred instead, to settle in Mazagaon
Aerial View Matharpakhadi, 1995
Source: Pankaj Joshi
Pre-1650
Original Ecology of Matharpakhadi & its Environs
Source: MMR Report
Mazagaon Koliwada, the original fishing village is present.
Matharpakhadi area consists of rice fields & fruit orchards.
Sparse buildings mostly huts of Bhandaris, Agris, Kunbis and Kolis.
Dock present with small trading activity
1812
Beginning of Matharpakhadi Settlements
Koliwada expands northwards to Nowghur
Fruit Orchards in Matharpakhadi developed around the tank
Few houses indicate the commencement of building activity
New dock and market in Mazagaon, with growth in commercial activity.
Major reclamation binding the Mazagaon island to Bombay’s mainland
Matharpakhadi plot is appropriated for powder works.
The emergence of settlement pattern is observed.
1872
Development of Matharpakhadi & its Environs
Matharpakhadi with moderate number of houses, and a recognizable settlement pattern.
Roads and cross lanes developed.
Streets in the Matharpakhadi Area
Source: Pankaj Joshi
Mazagaon station added to the Central Railway Network
Major reclamation in Mazagaon, to the north of Matharpakhadi.
Peninsular and Oriental Company converted the old Mazagaon dock into the largest and perfect timber slip leading to an increase in commercial activity, migration of people and building activity in Matharpakhadi.
1906
Settlement Pattern & Cultural Activities
· Matharpakhadi showing dense settlement pattern
· Matharpakhadi road divides the Matharpakhadi area, curtailing the growth of the settlement
· Fringe development increases due to an increase in industrial activity
· Matharpakhadi Tank filled as it became redundant due to the functioning of the Bhandarwada reservoir.
· Outbreak of plague, oratory built as a thanksgiving for its end.
· Proposed Harbour Line Railway to cut through the Matharpakhadi area.
1915
Functional Development of Matharpakhadi
· Original Matharpakhadi settlement restricted to the triangular plot
· Fringe development rapidly increased due to the cotton mania
· Tank Square – Matharpakhadi Tank reclamation, converted into a garden
· Matharpakhadi area appropriated to accommodate port trust railway
· Increase in industrial warehouses and godowns
1981
Beginning of Matharpakhadi Fabric Dissociation
· Fringe development encroaching onto the original Matharpakhadi settlement
· Land use changes fostered non-functionality of the Tank Garden area
The Community Spirit of Union:
The village streets are extended spaces of the homes. It forms a collective network space for the residents and the passersby alike. The village railings are decorative elemental features that simply allow friendly interactions between the residents and their front streets. The spatial design and common ethnic & historic association enable the residents of the Matharpakhadi village to maintain the cultural essence of the heritage precinct.
The Holy Cross Feast:
The Holy Cross feast is considered an important event in the lives of the Matharpakhadi residents. For them, the community triumphs over everything else.
This year marked its 147th anniversary. The event lasts for about 9 days. Commencing from the 22nd of April till the 1st of May
The celebration brings every resident of the village to its streets. Some activities that the community enjoys together, include cooking delicacies for one another and praying. The feast is prioritized so much that it is never postponed or stopped.
Miranda House Cross
Amidst the pandemic years, the residents found ways to honour this special, centuries-old tradition. The feast was organized online. Hymns were recited over a live stream; each household cooked their special dishes.
The concept for the celebration is: ‘The things people do in their houses, we do it as a community’
Community Living:
A mix of ethnic communities live in the neighbourhood. Originally Matharpakhadi became home to Goans and Mangaloreans looking for opportunities in the growing metropolis. As time went by the East Indian Roman Catholics were joined by the Parsis and as time passed Jains and Bohris and people of other communities settled in. Through the passage of years, newcomers got integrated into the community. The Festival of Lights has universal appeal with many windows sporting diyas. Adults and children play with firecrackers keeping within the current conservation ethos. At Eid and Christmas, sheer korma and Christmas sweets respectively are exchanged.
Architecture and Inspiration:
The village is self-contained & distinguished with artistic wrought iron and wooden bungalows, art décor, sprawling porches, verandas and altars and sloping brick roofs.
Marian Villa: belonging to the Mascarenhas Family
Source: Wanderlust Adventure
Marian Villa: belonging to the Mascarenhas Family
Lopes Home: Lopes Home is located near the entrance to Matharpakhadi Village is one of the most beautiful and well-preserved homes that are representative of the architecture of the late 1800s
Lion’s Den: This house is located diagonally opposite the Lopes Home. It was built in 1892. It is a popular landmark in the village and home to the Leao family. The house structure itself sports two stone lions flanking the entrance. This is conceptualized based on a connection between the family surname and the lions. The house was named for the eldest son Daniel, the biblical figure who was thrown into the Lion's Den.
Lion’s Den
Source: Heritage Chronicles
Although there are a handful of entry points from the main road into this enclave, On Ram Naik Marg just opposite one of the entry points lies this house, as a defining element of the area. The narrow lanes opposite Lion’s Den hold the oldest Portuguese-style homes in the city complete with colourful facades, wooden staircases, and open balconies. Baptista’s descendants still have two houses and still are the residents here.
Reflecting on Historic Narratives:
Most of the buildings have a story to tell. It not only tells a family’s story but also reflects local, and regional history. It is the architectural details that especially reflect this. For instance, Queen Victoria has been engraved in some of these details since back in the Victorian times. The residents of Mumbai showed their respect for the Queen with these humble gestures.
The iron grills of House No. 20A show Queen Victoria at the centre. This is a Single occupation, split levels home
The windows of Matharpacady have simple, astute qualities. For instance, the inner layer has wooden louvred shutters and the outer layer is a glass panel. In this way, they can have both effective ventilation and retain their privacy.
Each Home: A Distinguished Sight:
Each house is uniquely composed with bright floral murals, façade details, and bright colour palettes for the outer walls ranging from red to pastel yellow. The houses have spacious, open balconies with intricate metalwork engravings. And these private spaces enable semi-public, street-level interactions. So each house is an enclave of its own and it also contributes to a part of the larger community
Each house was unique in its spirit: Colours, plantations & entrances
As the pandemic made its way inroads into the village, in 2021, the community still comes to rescue. The open balconies play an enabling role. For instance, reaching out to the older residents as they are the most vulnerable. In this way, the quarantined ones can talk to one another through the balconies, through the safety of their beautiful grilles
A cobbler shop in the village
Source: Heritage Chronicles
This is the essence that is considered the “spirit” of the urban villages. An easy interaction of people living within the neighbourhood. Within safety, yet one another’s reach.
Another structure considered fascinating in the village is the Miranda house. Owned by the Miranda brothers, it now serves as the residence of the Blessed Sacrament Fathers, which the brothers gifted to them.
The System of Kudds, or Rooms:
A very interesting feature of the village is that it is home to a handful of "kudds or Cudds". Mumbai's mini Majordas or Calangutes. It is translated as "rooms" in Konkani. These are dormitory-style clubs where Catholic migrant workers from Goa could stay for a few rupees a month, while they look for work or if they are passing through Mumbai. Each kudd is named after a Goan village and is open to Catholic men or families from that same village only.
St Lawrence Club of Arrosim
The condition for the stay in these kudds was to pray with a rosary every night and to switch the lights off at 10 pm. Some clubs in the village include the Club of Paroda, St Lawrence Club of Arrossim, and the Club of N.S Dos Remedios. Most of these are closed permanently or have a lack of visitors.
The village also boasts of its well, which was used for rituals during weddings, preserved even today covered from the top
Physical Transformation in Buildings:
Most of the physical transformations in Matharpakhadi are either due to the complete redevelopment of a property or reconstructions & façade alterations carried out by repairing agencies, that are either private or government-run.
Structural Alterations
Source: Pankaj Joshi
As maintenance of wooden verandas, trellis work, and timber structural work might be an expensive proposition, they are stripped and replaced by masonry and concrete work. This alters the original aesthetics of the complete structure.
Wooden Trellis work
Source: Pankaj Joshi
Reservation of plots and non-implementation also led to the loss of essential functionality in certain areas along the streets.
Belief in St Roque:
The Holy Cross Oratory which is considered the ‘emotional centre of the village’ was built by the residents of Matharpakhadi as a gesture of gratefulness in (1875-1896) when the plague left the village unscathed. It is believed that St. Roque – patron saint for pestilence, had protected and saved the lives of all resident families in the village. The residents of the village pray in the memory of the Saint for succour against the virus.
The Holy Cross Oratory: Built in 1875
Source: Heritage Chronicles
Generations of families in Matharpacady Village, down the decades, have sustained and continued the traditions of praying and worshipping at the Cross Oratory
Mangoes & Cultural Literature:
The mangoes from the twice-fruiting mango tree were a celebrated commodity. Not just in the village, but the entire Mazagaon. The area’s mangoes find a mention as the ‘Mangoes of Mazagong’ in the epic poem Lallah Rookh by Thomas Moore in 1817.
Urban Life & Historic Literature:
Recently, a book titled My Own Mazagaon was released that talks about the history of Mazagon. It is authored by Capt Ramesh Babu of Mazagon Dock. It brings out the lost history of this precinct, which was once the richest island in the archipelago and the most sought-after destination in Bombay.
My Own Mazagaon, by Captain Ramesh Babu
The book has an entire chapter on Matharpakhadi and many passages on Rosary Church, St. Isabel’s School and other heritage structures related to the village, and celebrated personalities who lived here. The author in fact, also highlights in his book, the importance of preserving the heritage of the historic settlement.
Traces of Nostalgia through the Streets:
The village life was visualized as if seeped in stories and lulled by lore, of biannually blooming trees, and sheathed serpents – the drumstick trees hosted camouflaged green snakes, which dropped on victims, and of the perennial well, which was supposed unwise to visit late nights.
Solid colour suffused facades like the Mascarenhas family’s lime-yellow Marian Villa with blue-and-white tiles, and the red-walled Baptista home. From buttercup yellow-painted Keepsake, smiling seaman who waves warmly at strangers who walk slowly to admire the 1928 cottage’s exquisite woodwork.
Matharpakhadi Tank
Source: Heritage Chronicles
Music floated from every balcony. With the Beatles and Shadows storming the scene, the Busy Bees and Carvellos bands formed here. Everyone watched them jam from any perch possible. The older residents allowed the children to place a teetering leg on their ledge or sill, to peer up at the terrace of the Rear Helal Building where the Busy Bees energetically rehearsed with Fender Stratocaster guitars and high-powered amps. The Goans strummed Konkani mandos with flair. The bongo players hit the bongos in robust rhythm on social occasions, to immortalise Bongo Lane.
Changing Instances of Sociability:
Earlier, there was a time when the windows and doors of these houses were open throughout the day. It isn’t so now. Some residents have moved abroad and are willing to sell their assets, while some are unable to bear the cost of continuous preservation.
Community Social Spaces. L to R: Pereira Cross, Open Space Near Well & Roadside Shrine
Source: Pankaj Joshi
The older structures that were demolished, are now replaced with buildings that are a few stories higher than the original bungalows that were ground or G+1 high.
Right: A building that replaced one of the existing villas
Source: Heritage Chronicles
High and mid-rise developments within the locality and on the fringes, altered the scale and proportion of built forms. This transformed the interactive essence of the streets in the village. This is how the community and its history have slowly dissipated with time.
Language:
Earlier, Marathi was the native tongue of the East Indians, the original residents of Mumbai. Since the Bombay of that time was a Portuguese colony, East Indian residents of Matharpakhadi were also well versed in Portuguese. However, with the coming of the British Rule the elders of that time realised that fluency in English was the key to better employment opportunities.
Heritage Status:
Matharpakhadi Precinct is a Grade III Structural & Heritage Precinct. Grade III structures are defined as those that ‘evoke architectural, aesthetic or sociological interest’ while precincts are a group of structures that may not have any individual value but give the area its unique character.
Matharpakhadi Street
Source: Heritage Chronicles
Grade III structures and precincts are the grains in the fabric around landmarks in Mumbai. Its unique physical characteristics add cultural value to the local fabric.
Conservation & Upkeep:
As per the Heritage Village Precinct Guidelines for Matharpakhadi, approved by the Municipal Commissioner: the footprint including the roofscape and verandah of the structures in the precinct must be maintained. The guidelines put restrictions on height and any changes to the structures' facades and architectural features.
Earlier, the Heritage Committee’s permission was required to extend the structure or build additional buildings in the complex. Reconstruction of the structure itself was allowed by the panel only in case it was found to be in poor condition.
According to the DP 2034, the category of Grade III structures & precincts has been omitted, enabling redevelopments, thereby transforming the cultural landscape of the city.
With the city’s development and real estate costs, the small quaint bungalows may now give way to contemporary buildings, thus changing the village’s old-world, charms.
Despite this, many heritage enthusiasts are vocal about the cause. They are contributing to conserving the culture& identity of the village fabric by conducting walking tours, engaging with the residents, and contributing to the Matharpacady Association, to preserve this heritage.
Future Development:
Mumbai’s Development Plan (DP) 2034, allows for unrestricted redevelopment of listed Grade III heritage structures and precincts that account for nearly half of the total notified heritage structures of Mumbai.
The move enables the possibilities of redeveloping the quaint Portuguese-style bungalows of the Mhatarpakhadi which falls under the category of protected precincts.
Matharpakhadi is prime SoBo land, in terms of real estate value. Gentrifying Matharpakhadi will cause the loss of a cultural asset that contributes to the identity of the city. As per Vikas Dilawari, a conservation architect in Mumbai, surviving gracefully should be given priority for its conservation rather than just plain survival.
As most of the buildings in the precinct belong are categorized under cessed structures, it would imply DCR 33 (7), 33 (8) and 33 (9). This would enable redevelopments, which would change the cultural character of the precinct.
Rental Housing:
According to Vikas Dilawari, reintroducing the idea of rental housing can preserve these urban village spaces. The urban village contributes to the cultural fabric of the city.
Cultural Activities & Initiatives:
An East Indian Flavour: The village welcomes a cultural experience to anyone visiting. Some of the families prepare special homemade East Indian lunches at their traditional Portuguese homes. Inspired by Portuguese and Local cuisine, the East Indians use bottled masalas and palm vinegar which distinguishes their food and contributes to the city’s cultural collage.
Bottle Masala: Bottle masala is an East Indian’s secret ingredient in the perfect khudi, sarpatal (spelling differs from the Goan version), balchao and many other specialities.
Bottle Masala: An East Indian flavour carried forward
Source: Matharpakhadi Village Website
Mangoes: The famous mango tree that still stands outside Militia Apartments can be used for kasaundi pickle or chutney.
City Associations: Some city-level associations for the urban villages include - the Bombay East Indian Association (BEIA)
Resources:
Joshi, P. & MMR - Heritage Conservation Society. (1995). Conservation Guidelines for Matharpakhadi Precinct, Mumbai.
Heritage Chronicles: https://heritagechronicles.blogspot.com/2019/10/discover-mumbai-heritage-quaint-little.html
WanderlustAdventures:https://travelnew.tumblr.com/post/161166120170/matharpakhadi-or-matharpacady-village-in-mazgaon
Official Website for Matharpakhadi Village: http://www.matharpacadyvillage.com/
DP paves the way for the redevelopment of Grade III Heritage Structures. (2015). Indian Express:https://indianexpress.com/article/cities/mumbai/dp-paves-way-for-redevelopment-of-grade-iii-heritage-structures/
Heritage Village flags violations says no action yet. (2013). Indian Express Archive:http://archive.indianexpress.com/news/heritage-village-flags-violations-says-no-action-yet/1181931/
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