Introduction:
Recently, I visited Goa. The last I had visited the state was about 20 years back. Our ancestral and family deities' temples are located there. As I was growing up, I saw how Goa became a part of visual trends - party hub, countryside living, Portuguese forts and in general, a free-spirited lifestyle. These trends became associated with the identity of Goa. Even I expected this range of activities and associations.
There's a network of highways - including National Highways and the Atal Setu (above)
As I reached the city, my first impression was that it looked like any other (southern) coastal city in India. I even presumed that Goa can be explored on a scooter easily. This was not the case. It is best to explore Goa with a private 4-wheel vehicle. Because:
1) There is minimum public transport, also not frequent.
2) It is too big of a place to explore on a scooter. With so many inner roads, twists and turns - also sometimes with no network.
When I visited Goa, the weather was sweltering, and I couldn't stay out in the daytime. The mornings and evenings were however pleasant.
The tourist places are scattered around the state. You can't explore conveniently unless there's a private vehicle or the hop on - hop off bus. It is also the best idea to shift your stay locations as per the area you are exploring - purely for logistics purposes
Spiritual Connect
My intended trip was to visit and offer prayers to my family's ancestral deities. We made a day trip for this experience. Goa is an important place for Hinduism.
Shree Ramnath Devasthan, Ponda
These temples survived as they were located in and around the Ponda region, which was away from the Portuguese influence of control. These temples contain the deities of the temples which were destroyed by the Portuguese in the coastal Goa region. The people from the Hindu communities escaped with the vigraha or the deities' form towards Ponda. They then reclaimed the land in Ponda. The temples were then constructed and the deities' sthapna (establishment) was carried out.
Shree Vijaydurga Temple
The ancestral Gods are known as 'Kuldaivam'. It felt humbling to experience how my ancestors fought against the odds to survive, and this is why I am here today.
Safa Masjid in Ponda, Goa
Christianity and Hinduism are predominant in Goa. There is a minor, yet notable, influence of Islam as well. I noticed a few mosques along the Panjim-Belgavi Rd.
Historical Connect
Fort Reis Mago was a new experience. Usually, I splendour at the architecture and the views from forts. But this fort specifically had exhibitions that portrayed the names and photos of the nationalist rebellions who fought for the freedom of Goa. This existence of the fort was a reminder of how our ancestors fought intruders to rightfully reclaim the nation that belonged to us. Goa gained independence from the Portuguese Colonists in 1961.
Restored buildings in the Fort Reis Mago housing Goa's political expansion
The Portuguese considered Goa as a part of metropolitan Portugal and refused to move out despite India's Independence in 1947. They claimed the cultural and religious identity was separate from the whole of India, and therefore did not allow India the right to Goa's territory.
When the diplomatic negotiations between the Indians and the Portuguese failed, Goa was taken by force by the Indian Armed Forces in 1961.
Day to Day Life
While I typically wanted to explore the Fontainhas area, I was stunned to see that it was a quiet residential area. Some windows even had the notice of 'No Photographs Please' on their home windows. I felt upset because I initially thought that it was open to tourists. While it was, it was also a domestic space for many residents. Clicking photos there felt like an intrusion into their private life.
Hilltop view of Fontainhas Quarters
Thankfully, I strolled around the neighbourhood and enjoyed the brightness and colour it had to offer me, and I felt ecstatic to experience this.
Architecture and Forms
Goa houses a range of architecture. Right from Portuguese-style bright-coloured houses to Art Deco buildings to Mangalore tiled roof houses. Even the temples that were built in the Ponda region have a visual character that carries a mix of traditional/religious architecture with bright-coloured elements from Portuguese-style architectural elements.
Hospedria and Bar Goes - A Portuguese Inn
When I visited Vasco de Gama, it seemed that many buildings were not maintained or up for restoration of any kind. Unlike the buildings observed in Panjim, these buildings seemed like they were not a part of any historic upkeep process. These buildings however add to the visual character, marking the port activities related past.
The architecture above has a blend of Portuguese style, bright coloured and flat facade. However, the colonnades remind me of the kind of bars in rural Texas, portrayed in Hollywood movies.
Dipak Mahal is a commercial building, with finance banks and a mining company on the ground floor. It is an Art Deco building. However, the Mangalore tiled sloped roofs are reminiscent of the architectural styles in South India.
Dipak Mahal at Vasco de Gama, Goa
Varying Terrains & Social Connect
I Hillside Elite Residential Neighbourhood
After this, we drove around the Altinho hillside neighbourhood located nearby. It included the residence of government, political officials, religious institutions, and even the All India Radio building. There were large villas with typical Goan/ Portuguese architectural characteristics with bright colours.
A villa at the Altinho Neighbourhood
II Waterfront Tourism
I visited Candolim Beach in the peak afternoon, as we were exploring the city around then. It was crowded - with beach chairs and umbrellas. However, unfortunately, even sitting on the reclining chairs was chargeable. It broke my heart to see how even a natural beach experience was commercialized.
Thankfully, not all beach extents were like this. And I could experience other beautiful beaches - while on a morning walk and enjoy a pleasant evening stroll later in the day with the cool breeze.
There are a few riverboat casinos such as Big Daddy and Deltin Royale
There is a row of Casinos along the Panjim waterfront. These casinos are set up on large boats. Casinos are not allowed on the mainland, as gambling is not encouraged in India. However, to encourage tourist revenue, Goa's state government has allowed this facility offshore. The ones available on the mainland are electronic.
Small yachts carrying about 10 people are also available for rent. These yachts encourage party life, or group trips along the Mandovi River.
III Nature Terrains
Goa also offers nature recreation such as hiking, waterfalls and a wildlife sanctuary. This recreation goes hand in hand with other activities. For instance, the way toward the Kadamba Shree Mahadeva Temple (an archaeological spot) goes through the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary.
Spice Garden
They also have spice gardens that grow coffee beans, lemongrass, vanilla and other such spices. They also harvest cashews during the season. On the site, they also ferment the cashew apples. This creates the first distillate known as urrak, and the third distillate known as feni. These drinks are prepared during the cashew season and are a relish for visitors looking to explore the traditional drink.
Lunch at the Spice Garden
The spice garden I visited also offered a buffet lunch. It served a variety of veg and non-veg options. I had the Chicken Xacuti and a goan prawn curry.
IV Residential Zone and Recreation
My stay was located in a serene neighbourhood in Panjim. The area was proximal to the beach and included a roadside pedestrian walkway parallel to it along the road. It also had the most heartening area designated for the Senior Citizens known as 'Senior Socials'. It is a small intervention, where a small fenced plot was reserved and designed for the elderly. It included seating space, and some landscape and was brightly lit during the late hours.
Seniors Social
These urban elements accommodate safe pedestrian movement and encourage active recreation for the residents and visitors alike. Miramar Beach also has a coastal forest of about 70 m from the shoreline.
Entrance to Miramar Beach
As we move northwards toward the Miramar beach circle, we also observe restaurants and supermarkets to cater for the beach crowd. It is a good mix of commercial services for the residents and the visitors.
There are many neighbourhood colonies parallel to the edge of Miramar Beach. It includes high-end villas, building apartments and mid-range villas. These colonies also have small-scale services - hospitals, restaurants and homestays. These colonies reflect a quaint, country-like residential living experience, while while enjoying the convenience offered by the city living.
V Landscape & Ecology
The Santa Inez Creek, which is about 3.7 km long, flows amidst these localities. The creek flows into the Mandovi River. The creek edge has an offset which has the potential to be converted into a landscape and social recreation zone for the people in the neighbourhood.
Route of Santa Inez Creek, leading to Mandovi River
Source: Author
The Creek began life as a natural stream in the historic landscape of pre-colonial agricultural irrigation systems - which included man-made bunds (dykes), sluice gates and nallahs (irrigation channels), which created controlled, brackish-like areas known as khazans for the production of fish and salt-resistant rice (Monteiro, 2019). Such habitats create the raw ingredients for the quintessential Goan Fish Curry, which remains one of the identifiable dishes of Goa to this day.
Each historical intervention connects to the cultural experience of the region.
There is also a public boardwalk along in Mangrove edge in Panjim. The boardwalk attempts to connect the visitors with the mangroves. It attempts to create public awareness to safeguard the mangroves. The said mangroves are located along the Ourem Creek. This area is made accessible by connecting an internal road via a pedestrian bridge.
Both creeks play a crucial role in the City's drainage during the monsoon season.
Mangrove Boardwalk at a section along Ourem Creek
Overall, there is so much more to the region beyond the social media impressions. I wouldn't have experienced the city in its real glory if I had only considered the social media recommendations.
Citations:
Shokoohy, M. (2011). Muslim Architecture of South India. USA & Canada: Routledge Curzon
NTNU, Urban Ecological Planning Group. (2019). St Inez Creek Study. Norway: NTNU
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