Introduction:
Allepey or Alappuzha is a coastal town nearing the south side of the Kerala state in India. For the non-locals, it is well known for its houseboats and rides along the water canal lined with lush green landscape. It is quite commonly titled 'Venice of the East'. However, I prefer to refrain from this unfair title because there is no comparison in the first place. The term for the region, 'Alappuzha' is derived from its geographical location and terrain, meaning: the land between the sea and rivers flowing through it.
Historically, some regions from the Alleppey district such as Kuttanadu, which is the ancient backwater paddy fields, were well known since the 6th century BC. This period was also known as the Sangam period, the Golden period for South India. Including the ancient Tamil Nadu and Kerala regions.
The city has good intercity road connectivity with 3 longitudinal connections - from which 2 roads connect to the Northern parts of Kerala toward Kochi and 1 connects Northwards towards the eastern part of Kerala. It also has 1 lateral direct connection moving Eastwards.
The Beginnings of Alleppey as a Trade Hub:
Before the functions of Port Kochi came into existence, Alleppey functioned as an important port terminal. Its existence has been known since ancient times. This town functioned as a port up to the mid-1920s until it shifted northwards.
Alleppey is centrally situated to allow goods transportation - sea and domestic trade. Its canals were specifically created to link the inland and the sea-going systems of trade transport.
Port zone with pier in the background
This port's terrain was suited to carry out inland water freight transportation at affordable costs. This facilitated trade inwards of the state, creating prosperous inland towns thriving on occupations such as spice trade. Therefore, Alleppey became one of the most thriving towns on Kerala's Western Coast. It was the first planned region in the state of Kerala.
Alleppey's Canal System and Morphology:
Alleppey's town fabric reflects planning schemes influenced by the Dutch. The culture influences much of the town's factory and warehouse architecture.
The town's intrinsic canal system is a pivotal influence on its (earlier) trade-based economy, culture, architecture, and now, tourism. The canal system is also characteristic of the town's visual identity. The edges are lined with lush greens comprising trees, shrubs, a variety of plants, and grass. However, the green space is not continuous and has withered, browning patches.
Alleppey - Port, canal and lake system
Source: Author
The urban design pattern is of a linear form where the canal is the base of the town's morphology. The public buildings were also devised to break the visual monotony at the canal front.
The man-made canal system is characteristic of a Dutch Town. The backwaters were dyked to create inland water systems. The town's industrial fabric was aligned along the town's inland water canal. The buildings along this stretch commonly have a wide facade, unless intercepted by shorter ones. The canals are transected by bridges at regular intervals (of about an average of 500 m). The land's low water retention capacity makes it possible to create Alleppey.
Typical canal front at Alleppey
This created a centralized setting for public functions and movement. The road networks added to the ease of goods transportation. This morphologic blend - of natural terrain and man-made interventions created the visual identity for Alleppey town.
Two types of canal typology are noticed in Alleppey - The narrow one, and the wide one. The industrial town is aligned along the narrow canal typology. This width is achieved by stone and timber construction. The wide typology is observed in the backwaters area.
Channels connecting the canal to Alleppey's seaport
Source: Author
Alternative channels were required to allow the river water to meet the sea. Stepwells were constructed to meet the last point before the beach landscape. This intersection now serves as a public recreation space. This area aligns with Alleppey's historical port consisting of the sea pier and now, the Naval Ship Point.
The port zone includes a port area with a lighthouse and offices, a godown cluster and an industrial cluster.
Alleppey as a Cultural Center:
Alleppey was established as a factory town well known for its traditional industries. This enabled the economy in the region, including cottage handicrafts and construction.
The cultural landscape of Alleppey
Many mills and factories were established along the canal's route, which enabled the trade transportation boom. These included the European as well as the local companies. Many of these obsolete mills are still standing along the canal edge. These have been re-purposed and are still a part of the town's physical and socio-cultural fabric.
The Coir Industry:
This was Alleppey's primary industry. The cottage crafts included weaving coir and mats. Coir mats were sold along the street edge. Colour dyes were used to brighten the patterns on the mats, of varying colours. A wall-to-wall coir carpet is represented at the Secretariat at Trivandrum.
Traditional Coir handicraft industry - occupation
Coir lost its popularity to hi-tech products. The industry is however
The Lime Industry:
The lake beds of the backwaters have shells. It was used for the big structures in Kerala, as a building construction material. The method of lime preparation has not changed for over 5000 years.
Nowadays it is used as a filling in betel leaf, or paan.
Boat Building Industry:
This was another industry that came up as an externality of Alleppey's function of the canal freight transport system. Now the ship building yards are mainly used for the repair work. The boat design has been passed through the generations of boat-making craftsmen, using pre-historic principles. The materials and tools are available locally and therefore, eco-friendly.
Boat Building Process
Source: D'Source Website
Now the boat is used for transport, recreation, and minimal freight movement. Unlike its past where it was a part of an industrial town system.
Alleppey as a Heritage District:
Even though Alleppey lost its port status, its physical fabric still reflects the memories of its functional and trade past. The mill and the factory buildings can still be seen along the canal road edges. Some of the facility buildings that are no longer in use also include the lighthouse, godowns, offices, and the pier.
The port zone. The lighthouse remains a tourist attraction in Alleppey town
The pier in Alleppey is termed 'Kadalpalam' which translates to sea bridge. It was built by and by Captain Crawford and now lies in ruins. Despite this, the pier is still a popular tourist spot. It provides a nostalgic character to the sea face—a reminder of a lost past.
Alleppey Kadalpalam
Revival of Alleppey as a Heritage Town:
With the port and freight transportation function of the town long gone, Alleppey still exhibits the physical fabric of the town, albeit not being functional. This slow dysfunction of the fabric's function is threatening the existence of this ancient port town.
Newspaper clipping notifying the Heritage Projects
Many heritage revival projects are reminding and highlighting the visitors and residents of the town's thriving past. These projects can revive the town as a tourist destination.
Port Museum
Source: Benny Kuriakose Architects
Some projects that have been proposed and executed include the Alappuzha Heritage Project undertaken by architect Benny Kuriakose and the National Waterway Project. The National Waterway Project is an inland movement channel known as the 'Waterway to Prosperity'.
The carpet from MET Gala 2023, sourced from Alleppey Coir
Other than this, many Alleppey-based entrepreneurs such as the team from Extraweave, are reviving the legacy of the Coir carpet on an international scale. The natural fibre used in this carpet was sisal.
Vembanad Lake and its Significance:
Vembanadu Lake is a large inland river situated in Kerala, also the longest in India It is surrounded by Ernakulam, Kottayam and Alappuzha districts. The backwater has had a significant influence on the flourishing of the civilizations around it. They are economically important and have been used by the locals for centuries - for transportation, agriculture and fishing.
The Boat Race on Punnamada Lake
Punnamada Lake in Alleppey is an extension of Vembanadu. It is the recreation zone in Alleppey. It is also the venue for the Nehru Trophy boat races, local festivals and houseboat routes.
Enhancing The Canal Ride Experience:
People visit Alleppey for the sole purpose of a canal ride. The canals are the current source of the tourist system in Alleppey. It is a socio-cultural, recreational, ecological system - and also a mode of daily transport for the residents living near it.
These rides are served in different boat typologies, accommodating varying numbers of people with different purposes. These include the shikhara boats, traditional canoe boats, houseboats, and kayak boats. The shikhara and the houseboats have been re-purposed to include motorization for its mobility. The other (smaller) boats still have the boatmen navigating through the canal. The boat ride I experienced was a 2-hour ride on the traditional canoe.
Noted below are some interventions that would add to the overall intrinsic experience of the canal ride, and port town.
1 Slowing down the experience:
The boat ride can seem to get monotonous after a while. So slowing down the experience would be a great addition to the schedule. For instance, getting off at the canal edge to experience the area.
Functional Kiosk
Sketch: Laurie Baker
For instance, keeping a refreshment kiosk for tender coconut or chai. Other than this, to include seating along the canal edge and viewing the waterways. Adding a hammock in between the trees, for a quick siesta.
Bamboo seating with shade - along the canal edge
Sketch: Laurie Baker
The accessibility can also include a few steps, thereby providing a humanistic touch to the canal route.
2 Functional barges:
These barges can serve as snacks or souvenir shops. It can also include a floating garden experience, which can add to the aesthetic of the canal ride. Another unpopular idea would be to include classical or soulful music - at a specific or moving location providing live music to the visitors.
A singer performing on a barge in a canal in Yorkshire
Vegetative and floral, functional and ornamental - barges and islands. These can later be used for commercial purposes. Another idea is that it can also be used as a cosy experience for a picnic, for visitors. These create new experiences along the canal.
The Alappuzha municipality began the initial phase with marigold for Onam. Later they even considered cultivating sunflowers and vegetables. According to a news article, the gardens are said to be constructed on floating rafts made of coir geotextiles and nets. The seedlings will be planted on a bed of degraded water hyacinth and mud. Using aquatic weeds is sais to minimize their impact on the water bodies. There is also no requirement for watering the plants or applying fertilizers in this method
On a maintenance front, these barges could also serve as mild policing, or rescue and control. There are no safety measures undertaken other than life jackets and tyres on the boat.
3 Night time boat rides:
Nighttime boat rides have an appeal of their own. It allows the canal experience to feel mystical and magical. The like of 'The Princess and the Frog'.
Night-time boat ride experience in a European town
This experience would require lighting the boats, the canal edges and the tree tops with fairy lights. However, this intervention can be considered an afterthought, once the essentials are fulfilled.
The narrow canals can also include these beautifully lit archway features to add a gleam to the boat ride experience
4 Public recreation along canal edges:
As a part of slowing down the experience, small recreation zones can be designed for the visitors - the adults and the children alike. Sometimes, the long boat rides can stiffen our bodies. These recreation zones can allow a break for movement, and then continue with the boat rides. It allows the visitors to experience the canal edge's ambience nonetheless.
Recreation space for the visitors
Sketch: Laurie Baker
The designs for the recreation zones can be cost-effective and sustainable by using local materials. Some materials suggested by Laurie Baker include Changanur split granite stone, unused wood, and tyres. All these materials are long-lasting and can be used roughly, with minimal visible wear and tear. This is reflected in the sketches above and below.
Recreation space for children
Sketch: Laurie Baker
Raintrees can also be included along the canal edge. It provides a shady respite from excessive heat on sunny days and the summer season. These trees are essential as they also attract much of the local wildlife, especially the birds that add to the soothing experience at the canal. This creates an exotic, laid back and natural experience, reflecting the region.
5 Civic Responsibility:
No matter where we are visiting, it is our responsibility to safeguard the place, especially when it is an ecologically sensitive place. As visitors, it is our responsibility to clear up after ourselves. The food packets, the water bottles, the fruit peels and any other wastes should be collected and thrown at the nearest dustbin. It is a basic etiquette that needs to be followed no matter where we go.
Citations:
Natarajan B, and Others. (2008). Cities of Kerala, Actually Small Towns. Mumbai :Marg Publications
Baker, L. (1999). Alleppey - Venice of the East. Thrissur: Costford
Shokoohy, M. (2011). Muslim Architecture of South India. USA & Canada: RoutledgeCurzon
Benny Kuriakose & Associates. (2008). Alappuzha Heritage Project. [online]. Available at: https://www.bennykuriakose.com/alappuzha-heritage-project Accessed: [21-11-2023]
Studio Benny Kuriakose. (2019). Alappuzha Canal Rejuvenation Project. [Youtube Video]. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vmp2tmjzhRA&ab_channel=StudioBennyKuriakose Accessed: [23-11-2023]
well written.. very detailed🌟